A little bridge hidden among foliage and memories
A little bridge stretched across the wound of a ravine…
Sixty-four years ago, Chabuca Granda, one of Peru’s great singer-songwriters, dedicated these lines to a republican bridge. Since then, many things have changed, but the essence of that “sleepy little bridge…” remains intact in Barranco, Lima’s bohemian and romantic district.
“Embraced by memories, cliffs, and staircases,” each step on this bridge of “quiet wood” —in Chabuca’s words— elicits sighs of longing for the Lima that once was, for the Lima of the late 19th century, which, while not forgetting its viceroyal past, looked toward a promising republican future.
The Puente de los Suspiros is much more than a pathway connecting Ayacucho and La Ermita streets. It is history, tradition, memory, inheritance, and the heritage of a city that, despite urban growth and modern advancements, still preserves some bastions of a bygone era that will never return.
Indeed, that bygone era will inspire more than one sigh as you walk through the squares, the streets, and the iconic “hidden little bridge” of Barranco. Join us on this journey through one of the main attractions of Peru’s capital, a trek that —perhaps, why not— should end with toasts and smiles.
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Sighs of history in Barranco
18th Century. Year 1750. A luminous cross appears on the cliffs of colonial Lima, dazzling a group of indigenous fishermen. They recount what happened. Some time later, a baker named Caicedo attributed to that cross the miracle of healing his wife. Grateful, he built a hermitage at the site.
This would be the origin of the current district of Barranco, officially created on 26 October 1874, during the presidency of Manuel Pardo (1872-1879). Two years later, the first mayor, Enrique García Monterroso, would order the construction of a wooden bridge.
Originally measuring 8.5 metres high, 44 metres long, and 3 metres wide (it currently spans 31 metres), the pedestrian platform crosses the Pasaje de los Suspiros, a picturesque narrow cobbled street, with one of its starting and ending points being the famous Ermita.
The mayor’s aim was to connect the sides of the Bajada de los Baños, a ravine that descends towards the sea. What the authorities could not foresee at that time was that their work would suffer severe damage during the Chilean occupation of Lima, which occurred during the Pacific War (1879-1883).
Historians say that after the battered Peruvian army’s defeat at the Battle of San Juan (13 January 1881), the Chilean soldiers “celebrated” their victory by looting and setting fire to various locations in the captured city; as a result, La Ermita and the Bridge of Sighs were damaged by the flames.
The Origin of the Sighs
A Bridge, Many Stories. Some are documented, while others carry a hint of legend. It doesn’t matter; we’ll share more than one. This way, when you visit Barranco, you’ll better understand the significance of this traditional district, located 11 kilometres south of Lima’s Historic Centre.
Let’s start with the name: Sighs. Was it called this at its inauguration on 14 February 1876? The answer is no. Initially, it was named after the surname of the mayor who ordered its construction (García Monterroso).
The next question is: when? Who or whom gave the “first” sigh? It was the lovers who turned the pathway into their meeting place. The passers-by who crossed the bridge without breathing, believing that their wish would come true if they did so before taking their first step.
Perhaps these sighs are closely linked to the arrows of San Valentín. After all, the bridge was inaugurated on that day. Or maybe the origin of its current name comes from the song “El Puente de los Suspiros,” written in 1960 by the great Chabuca Granda.
Regardless, to add more meaning to the name, we recommend you sigh for love, relief, or in honour of Chabuca’s composition, in which she wrote and sang: “My bridge is a poet waiting for me / With its quiet wood, every afternoon / And it sighs, and I sigh; it welcomes me and I leave it / Alone, over its wound, its ravine.”
A Ghost on the Bridge
But what if the sighs are of terror? This question is valid when one learns the legend of María, a young woman from a wealthy family who lived in Barranco, very close to the bridge. Everything was perfect in her life until love touched her heart.
Sweet María fell in love with a noble man, but one without fortune. This was unacceptable to her family. In secret, she met with her impoverished suitor until one fateful night when misfortune conspired against the enchanted couple.
Her father discovered her. “You will not leave this house again,” he ordered furiously. Unwilling to resign herself, driven by her passion, she seized an opportunity and escaped. Under the moonlight, she ran desperately towards the bridge, hoping to find her beloved. Upon arrival, her heart was shattered forever. He was dead.
It is said that her sobs and sighs were so profound that on serene nights, they can still be heard. For María, the heartbroken María, the ghostly María, still wanders the bridge, weeping and sighing for her lost love, for the love that was murdered.
So Much to See and Do
Your Urban Excursion Will Be Full of Sighs of Emotion and Surprise. Barranco is an appealing district, known for its diverse cultural scene, bohemian nights, and its poetic, musical, and romantic aura, along with panoramic views of the bay of Lima.
Visiting the Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC), the Ricardo Palma House Museum, or the Mario Testino Museum (Mate) are enriching activities. But that’s not all. Festivals and temporary fairs are held in the plazas and streets of Barranco, adding a special touch to your experience.
If you enjoy photography and videography, prepare to take spectacular shots of the puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs), the Bajada de los Baños, the republican mansions that still stand, and the Costa Verde. Here, you can experiment with various angles and techniques to unleash your creativity.
After capturing the best views —we recommend being patient and waiting for sunset— indulge in temptations. A bohemian tour of cafés, restaurants, pubs, bars, criollo peñas, and nightclubs is almost a must in this corner of the metropolis.
You won’t regret it. Take the opportunity to try signature drinks, such as pisco sour or chilcano de pisco. We recommend pairing them with a butifarra, a sandwich of country ham and lettuce, generously topped with sarsa criolla (onion, lime, and chili).
How to Get There?
Getting to Barranco is Not Complicated. So don’t worry too much. You also needn’t fret about the opening hours or entrance fee for the puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs). There are none, as it is a public thoroughfare open 24 hours a day. However, it’s best to avoid walking it in the early hours, especially if you’re alone.
Now, pack your backpack and head to your destination. Here’s how to get there:
- Public Transport: The Metropolitano buses have several stations in Barranco. Wherever you get off, you’ll need to walk to your destination. The fare is S/ 3.20 (less than a dollar), and you can catch them from the Historic Centre of Lima and districts like San Isidro and Miraflores, among others. The service tends to get crowded during peak hours (approximately 7:00 to 10:00 and 17:00 to 18:00), but the rest of the day is more passenger-friendly.
- By Taxi: This is the most efficient, quick, and safe option. Various taxi apps operate in Lima, such as Uber. Wherever you are, enter “Puente de los Suspiros” into your phone, and the driver will take you directly to your destination. Be aware that there are many independent taxis in the city; some are registered with the municipality, while others are not. So, you need to be very cautious.
- On Foot or by Bicycle: If you’re staying in Barranco or Miraflores, consider walking or cycling to the puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs). In both cases, consult a map or use navigation apps to find the most direct route. If you want to rent a bike, check out CitybikeLima.
- Private Tour: We recommend hiring a local tour operator to provide you with the most comprehensive experience.
Travel Recommendations
- The Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs) will offer you a spectacular view at sunset, with the sun reflecting on the Pacific Ocean and creating a romantic and picturesque atmosphere.
- Stroll through the cobbled streets, visit local art galleries, and discover the vibrant cultural and gastronomic scene of the district.
- The Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs) is situated in an area with cobbled streets and gentle slopes. We recommend wearing comfortable footwear.
- Respect local regulations and be mindful of your waste, so that the bridge and the streets of Barranco maintain their charm.
- Indulge in the best of Peruvian cuisine at the restaurants and cafés in Barranco. Delicious dishes like ceviche, lomo saltado, anticuchos, and picarones will add flavour to your cultural and bohemian experience.
